You switch the layer to blending mode “difference” to ensure perfect alignment, then switch back to “normal” blending mode with 50% opacity. The process is simple, you add the second image as a layer on top of your first image. Due to the nature of lunar eclipse photography where you have only a handful of exposures for a specific phase of the eclipse, it is possible to stack manually using Photoshop. You might be familiar with stacking of deep space photos on programs like DSS or stacking of planetary videos on Registax / Autostakkert.
However, with the “magic” of stacking, we can combine multiple “grainy” short exposures for great results.
Solar eclipse stacking software iso#
You can see that my camera is a bit grainy at ISO 1600, which might seem like a drawback of going for short exposures. Here are a couple of example shots at 40 minutes before maximum and at maximum respectively: I had an intervalometer shooting once every minute and between two auto-shots I could try out longer or shorter exposures for a different effect. I chose the latter because I wanted a quick setup with not very precise polar alignment and also the ability to do many test exposures. While you will start a lunar eclipse session with ISO 400 or less and exposures at 1/1000s or so, near the eclipse maximum you will need to either go to the ISO 400 / 15 sec exposure route, or ramp up the ISO to something like 1600 where you might be OK with just 1 or 2 sec exposures. For more pics and the how and why of the session and the timelapse, read on.
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